oldvet
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 02/09
Posted: 02/17/09 09:59 AM
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Posted: 02/20/09 05:52 PM
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Hi Oldvet. The correct answer lies within the boundaries of "what you're looking for" and "how much you want to spend" on the frame of your midyear. There is also the variable thrown in of "do you trust the powdercoater"? Let me elaborate. I have always been of the philosophy to paint the frames of my restorations because I could control the outcome, I didn't have to outsource it, and the results were 10 times more durable than the material put on the frame from the factory. With a properly prepared frame (one that has been degreased and sand blasted), The next step would be to thoroughly check over the frame for any repair work that might need to be done. Epoxy primer follows this step for its superior adhesion and corrosion protection. Follow this primer with a high-build primer-surfacer that will fill the pock marks left over from any corrosion that may have occurred. The primer-surfacer is sanded with 400 grit paper to "block out" the pock marks, leaving a smooth, new-looking frame for your new paint. The paint should be something durable, yet easy to use. I prefer single stage urethane for this very reason, and will mix in some flattener to give a semi-gloss look. Chassis paint is also available, pre-mixed, from various auto restoration sources, so it might be worth your time to investigate paint options instead of mixing your own. There are also the brush-on rust conversion coatings that bond to the metal to give it unmatched protection against rust. Not a big fan. After all, these frames don't belong to boat trailers that will be launching a skiff in the Atlantic Ocean on a regular basis. They "say" you can't see the brush marks when you're done with the process. Um, yeah.
Ok, so where does the "trust" issue come in? A few years ago I sent two sandblasted Corvette frames to a large powdercoater in Ohio that advertises at a lot of the street rod events. I should have suspected a rat when I was told it was the same price for powdercoating if I sent them a frame pre-cleaned and sandblasted, versus one that just slid out from under a Corvette that had been converted to a dump truck and was used to pave all the highways east of the Mississippi. Anyway, although I didn't like it, I went forward with the idea since it would free me up from painting these two frames in my booth. When I picked these two frames up upon completion, I noticed how carefully the powdercoating guy was handling the two frames, using styrofoam blocks to cradle the frames and protect them from getting anywhere near each other. Long story short: We noticed back at the shop that these two frames would scratch very easily, and didn't exibit the durability powdercoating is known for. I call back to the powdercoating shop was answered with "well, if you get a scratch in the frame, just sand it lightly with 400 grit paper and touch it up with ordinary paint". I took some 400 paper, just out of curiosity, and ran it back and forth over the scratch a few times. To my surprise, I was looking at a bare frame rail in no time. Now I'm here to tell you, powdercoating, CORRECT powdercoating, will laugh at 400 grit sandpaper if you try to sand it. This coating was easily removed, easily scratched, and didn't have a hint of the durability powdercoating is supposed to have. I ended up going back to my sand-blaster, who promply removed the "powdercoating" in a matter of 1/2 hour or so, so I could proceede with painting like I have always done. He told me this was definitly not powdercoating like he was used to. The product was a sham, the cost was absorbed, and a lesson was well-learned. To this day I don't know what kind of cheap black paint-like coating was applied to these frames, but it wasn't what I paid for. And, I paid dearly for it. Somehow, some way, this company is still in business and selling inferior products to unsuspecting clients. So, beware of the scam artists. They are everywhere. For me, painting is the way to go.
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oldvet
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 02/09
Posted: 02/20/09 09:16 PM
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Thanks jeffbernhardt, I did stop by the local powercoater, he has a very good reputation. He said he would media blast and powercoat with OEM matte for $600. A friend of mine had a hot rod frame powercoated at another shop in town and it started to rusted a few week later, so I know what you mean by "trust". My frame is in real good condition, painting may be the way to go if I can get a durable finish? Sandblasting, epoxy prime, primer filler and paint sounds good. I have no plans to restore to showroom new, just want to clean it up, make it look nice and drive it after all there years. Thanks again for your input.
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